Lexicon - Vevy Europe Skin Care Instant Report

Volume XXVII - Nr.2 - December 2012

Cetacene^®

A revolutionary change in the formulation of the excipient

As a result of continual application studies, Vevy Europe S.p.A. introduces the acetylated polyglyceride Cetacene (Vevy codex 03.1350) ^®, a multifunctional waxed excipient, having the following main properties for safe and innovative formulations:

Dispersing
Homogenizing
Plasticizing

Extensive laboratory tests show that Cetacene can be effectively used in several applications:

O/W – W/O emulsions	homogeneous structure and higher stability without modifying their viscosity as well as ensuring a uniform dispersion of particles, pigments and insoluble components.
Anhydrous systems	excellent plasticity properties without modifying the melting range and giving a more homogeneous pattern, high stability and no deformation under temperatures changes or mechanical stress.
Lipid and aqueous gels	exceptional emollience to aqueous gels and waterproof characteristics to lipid gels.
Foamy preparations	particularly thin bubbles, soft, creamy and voluminous foam, a foam control in baby-shampoos and a hair conditioning effect to after shampoos.

Cetacene appears as flakes, drops or solid, with a pale or straw yellow color and a sweet light characteristic odor.
It’s use levels are between 1% and 10%.
Confirmed by his safety profile, Cetacene is well tolerated by skin and mucosa and could be used in all dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations.

WHAT IS IT?

Cetacene is a multipurpose ingredient for safe and innovative formulations. It is a multifunctional waxed excipient:

Dispersing;
Homogenizing;
Plasticizing.

CHARACTERISTICS

Properties:	emollient, protective, stabilizing, homogenizing, dissolving, solubilizing
Applications:	O/W and W/O emulsions, anhydrous systems, oleogels, watery gels, shampoos and after-shampoos
Use levels:	1% - 10% (>10% anhydrous systems)
Appearance:	solid, flakes or drops
Odor:	light characteristic
Color:	pale or straw yellow
Solubility:	lipid and surface-activated systems
Melting Range:	48°C - 58°C
Acid Value:	< 6
Hydroxyl Value:	100-160
Iodine Value:	≤ 5

WHAT IS ITS CHEMICAL STRUCTURE?

Polyglyceride Acetylation Acetylpolyglyceride

Its INCI Name is Acetylated Glycol Stearate.

WHAT DO YOU USE IT FOR?

Cetacene is a Dermo Cosmetic Grade^® product, suitable for a wide range of formulations:

O/W and W/O emulsions;
Anhydrous or surface-activated systems;
Oleogels;
Watery gels.

WHAT ARE ITS PECULIARITIES?

A strong emollient action and softness to all finished products;
Excellent plasticity to creams, pomades and sticks;
An homogeneous structure to creams and sticks;
A delicate velvet and non greasy feeling to all finished products particularly to skin oils
(oleolites) and lotions;
Waterproof characteristics to oleogels;
High stability to all finished products in case of sudden temperature changes (longer shelf life, no deformation in warm and cold climates);
Adjustable release of the active principle in the skin;
Uniform resistance to sticks (plasticity);
Exceptional emollience to aqueous gels;
Foam control in baby-shampoos;
An hair conditioning effect to after-shampoos.

Base Emulsion

Cetacene provides a homogeneous structure and higher stability to the emulsions.


200	XALIFIN-15
100	TRIOXENE-LV
13	UNDEBENZOFENE-C
617	DEMINERALIZED WATER
50	PROPYLENE GLYCOL
10	IDRORAMNOSAN
10	DIMETHICONE


140	XALIFIN-15
100	TRIOXENE-LV
13	UNDEBENZOFENE-C
60	CETACENE
617	DEMINERALIZED WATER
50	PROPYLENE GLYCOL
10	IDRORAMNOSAN
10	DIMETHICONE

Foundation Cream

Cetacene guarantees a uniform dispersion of pigments and insoluble components.


865	BASE EMULSION
135	ETRUSCO KALIXIDE


865	CETACENE 6% BASE EMULSION
135	ETRUSCO KALIXIDE

Lipstick

Cetacene does not modify the melting range of solid anhydrous systems and confers a more homogeneous pattern.


303.5	NESATOL
255.0	LIPOCERITE AO 223
249.0	CASTOR OIL
135.0	SPERMACETI
20.0	MEGASOL COMPLEX
26.0	DODECALENE
9.0	UNDEBENZOFENE-C
0.5	VYOX
1.5	DL-α TOCOPHEROL
0.5	RETINOL PALMIT. 1.7 MIO


278.5	NESATOL
205.0	LIPOCERITE AO 223
224.0	CASTOR OIL
135.0	SPERMACETI
20.0	MEGASOL COMPLEX
26.0	DODECALENE
9.0	UNDEBENZOFENE-C
0.5	VYOX
1.5	DL-α TOCOPHEROL
0.5	RETINOL PALMIT. 1.7 MIO
100.0	CETACENE

Above all, Cetacene provides excellent plasticity properties to solid anhydrous systems (no deformation under temperature changes or mechanical stress).