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Volume XXIII - Nr.2 - December 2008

ADF-oleile

The dethixotropic agent

ADF-oleile® (Vevy Codex 04.0196) is a viscosity stabilizer and dethixotropic and anti-thickener agent for O/W emulsions. Viscosity regulator, it fluidifies emulsions as needed allowing to get fluid milks from emulsions with a cream consistency. Furthermore ADF-oleile stabilizes an emulsion towards temperature changes (thermo-rheostabilizing property).

Chemicophysical and toxicological tests did not ever give value to the so-called “bad imitations” which ADF-oleile can claim on the market. In its 48 years of life many pages have been written on ADF. Here you can find only some quotes:

  1. “Viscostatico, fluidificante y estabilizante de las emulsiones”. Nueva Estetica 52.
  2. “Studio della velocità di sedimentazione all’ultracentrifuga di un latte ottenuto con ADF-Oleile”. Relata Technica 1965, 3:3-9.
  3. “L’ADF Oleile” Lexicon Vevy Europe 1986, 4:62-64.
  4. “Viscosity modifier ADF-OLEILE”. Cosmetics & Toiletries 1986, vol. 101:31.
  5. “Milk for sun protection”. Cosmetics & Toiletries Ed.it. 1987, 4:76.
  6. “Preparazioni per uso topico in farmacia” Lexicon Vevy Europe 1988, 5:58-61.
  7. “Il contributo italiano in cosmetologia”. Lexicon Vevy Europe 1988, 6:80.
  8. “ADF-oleile”. Lexicon Vevy Europe 1993, 5:62-63.
  9. “How to avoid thyxotropic phenomena in liquid emulsions”. Relata Technica 1994, 1:13-18.
  10. “Thixotropy: how to avoid it” Lexicon Vevy Europe 2001, 1:2-3.

Suitable steps must be taken at the formulation stage to ensure an optimum batching of the active washing substance and the additives needed to correct the physico-chemical and biological properties of these washing agents. The correlation between detergency, foaming and irritation of the skin cells is one of the basic chapters of cosmetic. Substances called biochemical conditioners are a great help to formulate foam-producing detergents having suitable biological properties (such as for instance Carbossalina®, Vevy codex 18.1107).

Valid detergent compounds are obtained combining polysorbates (such as Ixol series) and laurylamidobetaine (such as LMB®, Vevy codex 01.0800) and even with cationic substance (such as Laurene®, Vevy codex 11.0496). When appropriately used, the latter will partly neutralize the anionic charge which is typical for the Afron-22®, Vevy codex 01.0468 molecule.

Besides the well-known pearly effects Afron-22 also permits to obtain milky effects by adding Glycosterine, Vevy codex 03.0515. Basic additives are monoamides (such as Nidaba-3®, Vevy codex 01.0176) and a special lecithinic-amide (Nidaba-318®, Vevy codex 01.1216) because of its foam stabilizing effect, viscosity control and particularly superfatting effect on the foam.

When using Afron-22, consideration must also be given to the addition of antidandruff and dermopurifyng agents (Undelene®, Vevy codex 11.0180, Tricosolfan®, Vevy codex 13.2083, tec.), emollient, softening and moisturizing additives (Dodecalene®, Vevy codex 03.0203), non cationic and antistatic agents (BTN®, Vevy codex 18.0523). Afron-22 and Isolene® (Vevy codex 02.0549) allow the preparation of foam-producing emulsions.

 

 

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